When you say kiwi, most people naturally know what to think of. It is a characteristic fruit with a slightly hairy skin that hides a delicious content of an interesting green colour. The kiwi is not, of course, a local fruit, but rather an exotic one. This is also why many people think that in our country they can only buy it in the shops. And you can’t grow it. But this is one of the common misconceptions. According to the experience of many, it may not be a problem to grow kiwifruit. And it is quite easy. You just need to know how to do it.
When it comes to varieties, the easiest to grow are the so-called self-pollinating varieties, where you don’t need to make sure you have both male and female plants. Examples of these varieties include Issai and Jenny. Of course, there are also foreign-pollinated varieties, where you need to make sure that you have a representative of both female and male plants, or pollinators, and in the right proportion – 1 pollinator can pollinate up to 7 female plants. Examples of varieties include
- Hayward, or
When and where to plant
The soil should ideally be prepared some time before planting, i.e. manure or compost should be added to a depth of about half a metre and should be mature. The soil itself needs to have a lot of nutrients, ideally a slightly acidic and permeable soil.
Adequate spacing between plants should also be ensured, which should be at least 3 metres apart.
It is advisable to fertilise the soil in the pre-spring and also in the spring, for example with nitrogen fertiliser.
For the successful cultivation of these woody plants, the principle applies: “Neither too little nor too much.” The soil should be kept moist, but not wet.
Frost protection and pruning
The roots should be covered with fabric, and the roots with twigs or bark. If possible, plants will welcome the opportunity to spend the winter in a suitable indoor space, such as a conservatory.
If pruning is involved, it is not carried out for the winter. When the plant sets fruit during June, the cut is made after the last one. The second cut is made after the harvest is complete. The cut removes the shoots that have already been flattened. In the first few years, the side shoots need to be cut back to 2 to 4 so-called eyes. These form the basis for further branches with fruit.